An experimental study of wave run-up at a steep beach
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
ISPH Numerical Modeling of Nonlinear Wave Run-up on Steep Slopes
Non-breaking tsunami waves run-up on steep slopes can cause severe damages to coastal structures. The estimation of the wave run-up rate caused by tsunami waves are important to understand the performance and safety issues of the breakwater in practice. In this paper, an Incompressible Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics method (ISPH) method was utilized for the 2DV numerical modeling of nonli...
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Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequ...
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Even though wave run-up is not a new subject, until recently analytical and numerical studies of long wave run-up on a plane beach have failed to identify the existence of resonant regimes. Furthermore, it was a common belief that the leading wave will result in the maximum runup. Stefanakis et al. (2011) underlined the importance of resonant long wave interactions during run-up and run-down. I...
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A numerical method for free-surface flow is presented at the aim of studying water waves in coastal areas. The method builds on the nonlinear shallow water equations and utilizes a non-hydrostatic pressure term to describe short waves. A vertical boundary-fitted grid is used with the water depth divided into a number of layers. A compact finite difference scheme is employed that takes into acco...
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Natural geophysical timeseries bear the signature of a number of complex, possibly inseparable, and generally unknown combination of linear, stable non-linear and chaotic processes. Quantifying the relative contribution of, in particular, the non-linear components will allow improved modelling and prediction of natural systems, or at least define some limitations on predictability. However, dif...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Fluid Mechanics
سال: 2003
ISSN: 0022-1120,1469-7645
DOI: 10.1017/s0022112003004543